2011-7-14 11:58
sinta
牛角扇下的辣炒生腸 焗你隊啤
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熱？係熱呀，就熱到盡食大牌檔啦喂！已經汗流浹背頭頂冒煙，阿廚仲要喺你側邊炒到火花四濺。明明熱死人，偏偏小菜入口又勞氣化鑊氣，抱怨之聲硬生生塞回嘴邊，喫番件炒生腸，辣到你五分鐘 KO一支大啤，這就是夏之香港街頭飲食文化。
[size=20pt][b]半分鐘上菜夠鑊氣[/size][/b]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb12p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]沙薑雞半隻$80[/size]
小綠屋街邊大牌檔，咪淨係識「蘭芳園」先得 o架，講真香港僅存大牌檔唔多，港九新界加埋頂盡得番廿零檔，不過如果你係老饕，應該識得踩落石硤尾街，由街頭行落街尾，竟然足足有九檔，話呢度係大牌檔集中營，唔過份。如果論鑊氣、講味道、講抵食，我會揀有五十六年歷史嘅「愛文生飯店」，認識檔主老表，由佢親自為我遞上一隻招牌沙薑雞開始，十幾個夥計戙企喺舖面，仲要做老闆嘅動手動腳？「要快嘛，大牌檔最緊要鑊氣，呢頭炒完嗰頭就要上枱，最好唔好超過半分鐘，夾入口仲標住煙咁先叫合格。好多酒樓，又要等人傳菜又要搵蓋冚，左搞右搞碟餸上到枱都出晒倒汗水，仲講乜鬼鑊氣。」
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb13p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■淋沙薑汁要睇火候，淋到隻雞僅僅熟，好考功夫。[/size]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb14p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■ Hazel從此係我仇人，拍片猛 NG暗喫半碟沙薑雞，仲要話好好味。[/size]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb9p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■牛角扇今晚無開，露天位開揚有生風，飲兩口啤酒就唔熱啦！[/size]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb6p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■坐街邊睇住師傅獻技，就係大牌檔風味。[/size]
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[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb10p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■一個檔口只可放五張枱，法例絕對企硬，想坐街邊位唔該早啲到場；想嘆冷氣嘅，仲有四個室內舖位，四五十圍梗無問題。[/size]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb22p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■周五六日例必排隊，唔想逼就閒日幫襯啦。[/size]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb11p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■碟碟份量十足，唔使怕醜，打包帶返屋企加餸，係呢度特色。[/size]
講開鑊，呢度用嘅鑊真係幾「大」鑊，平均四日燒爛一隻，炒個小菜平均三至五分鐘搞掂，隨時快過你同我淥個杯麪：「你哋未必估到，我哋間舖仲係燒火水 o架。」高壓泵將火水打成霧氣狀，火力開到盡會好似噴射引擎咁，燒到上屋頂，一般酒樓根本玩唔起，係半露天廚房先舞得佢掂，否則菜未煮熟，人先焗熟！「爐頭位要砌磚頭做隔熱，咪睇小佢，如果唔用白鑊放水遮住爐頭，就算隔一晚都好熱，跌乜落去都會燒着，好多舊大牌檔燒着嘢都係因為咁。」
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110714/large/14fb4p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■爐內砌磚，火猛起嚟，連磚都燒到見紅。[/size]
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[size=8pt]■黑鑊用咗兩日，上面嘅唔係爪痕，師傅亦無練鐵砂掌，係燒攣咗。 [/size]
[size=20pt][b]百分百啤酒菜[/size][/b]
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[size=8pt]桂林炒生腸$60[/size]
首選鑊氣推介有桂林炒生腸，新鮮生腸爽脆彈牙，火路夠猛，咪睇洋葱、唐芹、青紅椒炒到微微焦，裏面仲係鮮嫩 o架，唔信你夾片洋葱啪入口，仲有生洋葱嘅微微辛辣味，成件事都相當不可思議吓。配菜香味完全逼入生腸肉身，加埋用桂林辣椒醬炒起嘅汁底，一個字──辣！真係堅辣，絕對係啤酒菜，千祈咪做頭盤，食到 Last先點叫啦，否則一食味蕾從此罷工，之後食九大簋都唔會好味。
椒鹽鴨舌好別致地配腰果炒金蒜，惹味香口，炒得好乾身，無一滴油留喺碟底，腰果係自家鮮炸，$68大大碟，唔似街邊小食檔同你逐條計數，非常街坊良心生意，我勁鍾意乾蒜同鴨舌熱到黐埋一嚿，嗰種拮脷口感，直接挑戰你酒量。生炒骨用精選鮮腩排，輕輕有番少少軟骨，無骨？嚿肉又點會咁香呢？油位完全蒸發，變成脆口蜂巢狀，入口肉香滑，肥位脆卜卜，咁先係生炒骨嘛。
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[size=8pt]椒鹽鴨舌$68[/size]
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[size=8pt]生炒骨$55[/size]
[size=20pt][b]粗碌大鱔肥到出油[/size][/b]
數海鮮類，招牌作有豉汁蒸大鱔，只揀兩斤半大件粗碌貨色：「係呢個斤數嘅大鱔先夠肉哋，同埋肥到出油。」愛死佢個豉汁味道煮得夠輕巧，鱔香鮮味先可以完全保留，好多舖頭愛玩豉椒封面，封到無晒鱔香，完全喧賓奪主囉，想食豉椒，我唔識自己𢳂羮食咩？黃金蝦起用新鮮海中蝦，留意個黃金醬，完全封面唔油膩，師傅亦做得唔重味，僅僅食到淡淡蛋黃清香，點到即止，乾燒蝦香完全得以保留。豉椒蟶子王係細號貨色，係爭咁啲彈牙口感，不過相對較惹味，$90叫番碟送酒，唔奢侈啦。
呢度個沙薑雞，絕對係殺手級，冰鮮雞唔該借過，「愛文生飯店」每日限量供應三十隻新鮮靚雞，排隊搽沙薑，做法係先白切，煮到骨位仲有少少見紅，上枱前用雞湯淋到九成熟，最後用雞油開沙薑汁淋到全隻雞僅熟。味道？簡單形容係好沙薑，連皮都俾沙薑汁淋到縮埋，味道傳至肉心，「最師傅處係淋汁嗰陣，要留意雞肉本身有幾熟，要淋到隻雞僅僅熟，肉先滑。」我喺街，真係好耐無食過新鮮雞咯。
黑椒鹹豬手亦係重量級製作，$80足二人份量，仲要係大食嗰隻，入味唔過鹹已經難，個秘製黑椒汁仲要唔係快餐店勁多黑椒得個香字但無乜味道嘅劣等貨色，呢度個黑椒汁，唔該你慢慢嗒，令人回味，加埋生洋葱做底，隱隱有一股清甜香氣，引誘你食多兩嚿。整體賽後報告，食完全餐無見口渴，應該無乜落味精，呢啲咪良心囉。
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[size=8pt]豉汁蒸大鱔$88[/size]
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[size=8pt]黃金蝦$118[/size]
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[size=8pt]豉椒蟶子王$90[/size]
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[size=8pt]黑椒鹹豬手$80[/size]
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[size=8pt]■每晚六點開舖凌晨一點收爐，夜鬼族最愛，飲飽食醉又一 Day。[/size]
愛文生飯店[節錄...]
地址：深水埗石硤尾街 1號（近醫局街）
來源:蘋果日報網站